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Tirich Mir 7708m
Tirich Mir (alternatively) Terich
Mir or Terichmir is a ch ain of several peaks; all above 7000m. Tirich Mir
overlooks from Chitral town and can easily be seen from many
villages of Chitral. Tirich Mir main 7708m is the highest peak in the
whole of Hindukush
mountain range of Chitral-Pakistan.
Other summits of Tirich Mir group are:
Tirich Mir East 7690m
Tirich Mir West II 7500m
Tirich Mir West I 7487m
Tirich Mir West III 7400m
Tirich Mir West IV 7338m
Tirich Mir South 7100m
Tirich Mir North 7056m.
Tirich Mir main
peak 7708m was climbed for the first time in 1950
by a Norwegian expedition
led by Arne Naes,
the famous Norwegian philosopher and writer, other members
of the expedition were P.Kvern Berg and H.Berg.
Tirich Mir East 7690m was also first climbed by another
Norwegian expedition in 1964.Two members of the
expedition, R.Hoibakh and
A.Opdal reached the top.
Tirich Mir West II 7500m was climbed by an Italian
expedition; Beppe Re and Guido Machetto were reached the
top in August 1974.
Tirich Mir West I 7487m was first climbed by a
Czechoslovak expedition in July 1967, which was led by Engineer
Vladimir Sedory, other members of the expedition were; Cervinka, I.Galfy, V.Smida and
I.Urbanoric.The
expedition did not use any oxygen nor did they fix ropes.
Tirich Mir West III 7400m was climbed in 1974 by Group
University of Montagne et de Ski of France. Guy
Lucazeau and Bernard Amy led
the expedition.
Tirich Mir west IV 7338m, was first climbed in 1967 by
well known Mountaineer of Austria Mr. Kurt Diemberger
and DietmarProske to
the very difficult route of north face.
The seventh peak of Tirich Mir group is Tirich Mir south,
with an elevation of 7100m, which is still unclimbed.
Tirich Mir North 7056m was climbed in 1965 by German-
Austrian joint expedition, which was led by Kurt
Diemberger; other members
of the expedition were Herwig and Fritz Linder.
Base Camp... ……………4700m
Camp I……...................5200m
Camp II……………….…..6100m
Camp III …...................6800m
Camp IV…...……………...7300m
Itinerary
|
Days |
Activities |
Overnight |
|
1 |
Arrive in Islamabad airport.
Afternoon Islamabad city Tour |
Hotel |
|
2 |
Welcome reception (Briefing)
at Alpine Club of Pakistan- Meeting with LO. |
Hotel |
|
3 |
Fly to Chitral. 1 hour. Free
day for onward destination. |
Hotel |
|
4 |
Departure for Shagrom 2900m,
(the last village of Terich Valley) along the river of Mastuj and
Torkhow. 5-6 hours drive. |
Home Stay |
|
5 |
Trek to Sherniak (Jungle)
3540m. 5-6 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
6 |
Trek to Shughur Baisun 4038m.
5-6 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
7 |
Trek to (Terich Concordia)
Tirich Mir BC. 4700m. 6-7 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
8-34 |
Rest, acclimatize and
climbing activities. |
Camping |
|
35-36 |
2 days for return trek to
Shagrom, by the same route. |
Camping |
|
37 |
Drive back to Chitral. 5-6
hours. |
Hotel |
|
38 |
Fly or Drive to Islamabad. |
Hotel |
|
39 |
Farewell Meeting
(De-Briefing) in Alpine Club of Pakistan. |
Hotel |
|
40 |
Transfer to Islamabad airport
for onward flight. |
|
Services included:
·
Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for Permit process.
·
Royalty fee (US$ 400 for 7 climbers) and pollution fee to be paid by the Govt: of Pakistan.
·
Assistance upon on Arrival and Departure.
·
Welcome reception-farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
·
All
meal during hotel stay, trek and BC.
·
Porterage of all foodstuff and equipment up to BC and back to Shagrom.
·
Road
transfer between Airport-hotel and within city as per itinerary.
·
Dome
tents for sleeping for members at BC.
·
Mess
tent with tables and stools, kitchen tent and toilet tent.
·
Camping site fees and bridge crossing.
·
Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and all related gear.
·
Wages and basic kit of Guide, Cook, Assistant Cook, Porter Sardar and
Low Altitude Porters.
·
Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter
rescue)
·
Porterage at Airport, hotels, tool taxes and parking fees etc.
·
Mail
handling-forwarding to BC and overseas.
·
Reconfirmation of air tickets.
·
Hiring of High Altitude Porters, Mail Runners and other crew as per
requirement.
(Wages and kit to be arranged by the team)
·
Domestic airfare. Surface transfer incase of flight cancellation.
Service
not included
·
International Air fare, Airport taxes, excess baggage charges.
·
Liaison Officer Kit and equipment, allowance, travel, hotel and his
personal expenses of any kind.
·
Wages, allowance, food and kit-equipment of HAPs or any crew beyond BC.
·
Sleeping bags personal and climbing equipment of any kind above BC
including high altitude food
and oxygen.
·
Medications ground evacuations and Helicopter rescue.
·
Insurance liability of members.
·
Tips
for field staff, drivers and porters.
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