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Saraghrar 7349m

Saraghrar is a group of the 4^th highest independent massif in the Hindu Kush mountain range of Chitral-Pakistan. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7000m (22966ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from various expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. 
In 1958 a British Expedition led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the Main Summit 7349m. This expedition was stopped by the death of a member, P.S Nelson.
The year after, on August 24^th 1959, the North and the Main Summit 7349m were climbed for the 1^st time by an Italian expedition led by Fosco Maraini, including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio and Professor Carlo Alberto Pinelli. Their route ascended via the Niroghi Glacier on the North East of the massif.
On August 24^th 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, member of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro (Mountaineering Club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit 7307m for the first time by the Rosh-Gol Glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka Climbing Club) led by Akiyama Reiski, climbed the South West peak 7184m for the first time on July 29^th.
Two Catalan expeditions in 1975and 1977 tried the North West I summit 7300m via a rocky route, through the Roshgol (Terich valley) side but they did not reach the top.
On August, 1982, another Catalan Expedition, led by Juan Lopez, other members Enrique Lucas Liop Nil Bohigas Martorell reached up to 7200m the North West II summit (7250m).
In 2005, 5 members of a Swiss Expedition from (Neuchatel Mountaineering Club) led by Jean Michel Zweiacker reached the South East summit 7208m for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sebastian Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24^th: Marc Belanger and Jean Michel Zweiacker on July 29^th) via South face. This route is the easiest one to any > 7000m peak in the region. It is known to be the safest route and also easy to access i.e. only 2 days trek to the Base Camp.
Todate 2005, there are 13 peaks of this massif are explored, all above 7000m. 6 of the 13 are still unclimbed- including the Central peak 7330m.

Unclimbed Peaks of Saraghrar Massif

Saraghrar Central …………….7330m

Saraghrar North West I…….... 7300m

Saraghrar South III …………..7280m

Saraghrar North West II ……..7250m

Saraghrar South East II ……...7185m

Saraghrar South II …………...7109m

Itinerary

Days	Activities	Overnight
1	Arrive in Islamabad airport. Afternoon Islamabad city Tour	Hotel
2	Welcome reception (Briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan- Meeting with LO.	Hotel
3	Fly to Chitral. 1 hour. Free day for onward destination.	Hotel
4	Departure for Zondrangram 2560m, along the river of Mastuj and Torkhow. 5-6 hours drive.	Home Stay
5	Trek to Duru 3650mm. 5-6 hours trek. 4-5 hours trek.	Camping
6	Trek to Totirazno kuh (Base Camp) 4100m. 6-7 hours trek.	Camping
7-29	Rest, acclimatize and climbing activities.	Camping
30-31	2 days for return trek to Zondrangram, by the same route.	Camping
32	Drive back to Chitral. 5-6 hours.	Camping
33	Fly or Drive to Islamabad.	Hotel
34	Farewell Meeting (De-Briefing) in Alpine Club of Pakistan.	Hotel
35	Transfer to Islamabad airport for onward flight.

       Services included:

·         Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for Permit process.

·         Royalty fee (US$ 250 for 7 climbers) and pollution fee to be paid by the Govt: of Pakistan.

·         Assistance upon on Arrival and Departure.

·         Welcome reception-farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.

·         All meal during hotel stay, trek and BC.

·         Porterage of all foodstuff and equipment up to BC and back.

·         Road transfer between Airport-hotel and within city as per itinerary.

·         Dome tents for sleeping for members at BC.

·         Mess tent with tables and stools, kitchen tent and toilet tent.

·         Camping site fees and bridge crossing.

·         Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and all related gear.

·         Wages and basic kit of Guide, Cook, Assistant Cook, Porter Sardar and Low Altitude Porters.

·         Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue)

·         Porterage at Airport, hotels, tool taxes and parking fees etc.

·         Mail handling/forwarding to BC and overseas.

·         Reconfirmation of air tickets.

·         Hiring of High Altitude Porters, Mail Runners and other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team)

·         Domestic airfare. Surface transfer incase of flight cancellation.

 Service not included

·         International Air fare, Airport taxes, excess baggage charges.

·         Liaison Officer Kit and equipment, allowance, travel, hotel and his personal expenses of any kind.

·         Wages, allowance, food and kit-equipment of HAPs or any crew beyond BC.

·         Sleeping bags personal and climbing equipment of any kind above BC including high altitude food and oxygen.

·         Medications ground evacuations and Helicopter rescue.

·         Insurance liability of members.

·         Tips for field staff, drivers and porters.