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Nanga
Parbat 8125m
Nanga Parbat is the 2nd
highest mountain in the Himalayan Range of Pakistan and the 9th
highest in the world with the elevation of 8125m (26,660ft). It is situated
on the western most bastion of the Himalayan Range, lying on the main air
route from Rawalpindi to Gilgit and
 Skardu and can be seen in its full
majestic and fury from the air. Nanga Parbat has been always remained
challenge for mountaineers and adventures seekers.
The first ascent of the peak was in
1953, by German-Austrian Himalayan Expedition, which was led by Dr. Karl
Maria Herligkoffer. Hermann Buhl-an Austrian climber-reached the summit from
the north via the Raikot Glacier and East Ridge. The climbing started
smoothly and camps were established but due to bad weather, Herligkoffer
ordered all the climbers to come down from mountain to base camp. Buhl,
Kempter, Frauenbergar and Erti still in the higher camps. They had refused
the retreat order and on July 1st the weather turned better and
on July 2nd Buhl and Kempter established Camp V at 6900m. On July
3rd at 1:00 am Buhl left the camp heading upward while Kempter
eventually followed one hour later, but never chased him and soon turned
back leaving Buhl the task of climbing solo to the summit. Buhl reached the
summit without bottled oxygen at 7:30 pm. Night was falling fast as he
started to descend and he had an emergency bivouac above 8000m and he stood
there for the whole night until sunrise, which he amazingly survived.
He continued his descent arriving
at Camp V after 41 hours solo climbing and three days later he came down to
base camp, by which time many of the party had already packed up and left.
Itinerary
|
Days |
Activities |
Overnight |
|
1 |
Arrive in Islamabad airport.
Afternoon Islamabad city Tour |
Hotel |
|
2 |
Welcome
reception (Briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan- Meeting with LO. |
Hotel |
|
3 |
Drive to
Chilas (10-11 hours) over Karakoram Highway along the mighty river of
Indus. |
Hotel |
|
4 |
Departure for Bunar. 2-3 hours drive. |
Camping |
|
5 |
Trek to
Hilala. 4-5 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
6 |
Trek to
Zangot. 4-5 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
7 |
Trek to
Nanga Parbat Base Camp. 4-5 hours. |
Camping |
|
8-39 |
Rest,
acclimatize and climbing activities. |
Camping |
|
40 |
Trek
back down to Hilala. 7-8 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
41 |
Trek to
Bunar. 3-4 hours trek. Drive back to Chilas. |
Hotel |
|
42 |
Drive
back to Islamabad. |
Hotel |
|
43 |
De-briefing with Alpine Club of Pakistan, afternoon city tour. |
Hotel |
|
44 |
Transfer
to Islamabad airport for onward flight. |
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Services
Included:
·
Liaison with Ministry
of Tourism in Islamabad for Permit process.
·
Royalty fee (US$ 4500
for 7 members) and pollution fee to be paid by the Govt: of Pakistan.
·
Assistance upon on
Arrival and Departure.
·
Welcome reception and
farewell meeting (Briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
·
All meal during hotel
stay, trek and BC.
·
Porterage of all
foodstuff and equipment up to BC and back.
·
Road transfer between
Airport and hotel and within city as per itinerary.
·
Dome tents for
sleeping for members. (1 tent for 2 people) at BC.
·
Mess tent with tables
and stools, kitchen tent and toilet tent.
·
Camping site fees and
bridge crossing.
·
Kitchen equipment,
crockery, cutlery, fuel and all related gear.
·
Wages and basic kit
of Guide, Cook, Assistant Cook Porter Sardar and Low Altitude Porters.
·
Insurance of our
field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue)
·
Porterage at Airport,
hotels, tool taxes and parking fee s etc.
·
Mail handling and
forwarding to BC and overseas.
·
Reconfirmation of air
tickets.
·
Hiring of High
Altitude Porters, mail runners and other crew as per requirement. (Wages and
kit to be arranged by the team)
·
Domestic airfare.
Surface transfer incase of flight cancellation.
Service
not included:
·
International air
fare, airport taxes, excess baggage charges.
·
Liaison Officer Kit
and equipment, allowance, travel, hotel and his personal expenses of any
kind.
·
Wages, allowance,
food and kit-equipment of HAPs or any crew beyond BC.
·
Sleeping bags
personal and climbing equipment of any kind above BC including high altitude
food and oxygen.
·
Medications ground
evacuations and Helicopter rescue.
·
Insurance liability
of members.
·
Tips for field staff,
drivers and porters.
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