Istor o Nal is the 3rd
highest mountain in the High Hindu Kush range, in the Chitral District of
Pakistan. It is the 68th highest independent peak in the world.
It crowns a massif with 11 peaks of elevation more than 7000 m (22986ft).
The peak is located a few kilometers north of Tirich Mir. Because Istor o
Nal is behind the highest peak of Hindukush (Tirichmir 7708m) from many
viewpoints, it is not easily visible and therefore not well known.
The word “Istor o Nal” means
horseshoe in the khowar language. Istor
means, “horse” and nal means, “shoe” and the massif is look like a giant
horseshoe.
The Americans Major Ken Bankwala,
Josef E. Murphy, Jr, and Thomas A. Mutch, on a Princeton Mountaineering
Club Expedition, first climbed Istor o Nal on June 8, 1955. They climbed
the west ridge, starting from the south side of the peak through the
Terich
Glacier. Their small, minimally financed expedition (by the
standards of the time for high altitude mountaineering) achieved what was
then the second highest summit attained by Americans.
The main summit 7403m was climbed
by a Spanish expedition in 1969 headed by Anglada. 2 of the 11 peaks are
still unclimbed i.e. North East Peak 7276m and East Peak 7100m.
In the year 2000, a Swiss
Expedition led by Simon Perritaz arranged an expedition for the unclimbed
North East Peak 7276m with 8 other members; they could not gain the summit
due to shortage of rope, time and mostly weather condition. The two peaks
are still unclimbed and an obvious challenge for mountaineers.
Itinerary
|
Days |
Activities |
Overnight |
|
1 |
Arrive in Islamabad airport.
Afternoon Islamabad city Tour |
Hotel |
|
2 |
Welcome reception (Briefing)
at Alpine Club of Pakistan- Meeting with LO. |
Hotel |
|
3 |
Fly to Chitral. 1 hour. Free
day for onward destination. |
Hotel |
|
4 |
Departure for Shagrom 2900m,
(the last village of Terich Valley) along the river of Mastuj and
Torkhow. 5-6 hours drive. |
Home Stay |
|
5 |
Trek to Sherniak (Jungle)
3540m. 5-6 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
6 |
Trek to Shughur Baisun 4038m.
5-6 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
7 |
Trek to (Terich Concordia)
Tirich Mir BC. 4700m. 6-7 hours trek. |
Camping |
|
8-34 |
Rest, acclimatize and
climbing activities. |
Camping |
|
35-36 |
2 days for return trek to
Shagrom, by the same route. |
Camping |
|
37 |
Drive back to Chitral. 5-6
hours. |
Hotel |
|
38 |
Fly or Drive to Islamabad. |
Hotel |
|
39 |
Farewell Meeting
(De-Briefing) in Alpine Club of Pakistan. |
Hotel |
|
40 |
Transfer to Islamabad airport
for onward flight. |
|
Services included:
·
Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for Permit process.
·
Royalty fee (US$ 250 for 7 climbers) and pollution fee to be paid by the
Govt: of Pakistan.
·
Assistance upon on Arrival and Departure.
·
Welcome reception-farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
·
All
meal during hotel stay, trek and BC.
·
Porterage of all foodstuff and equipment up to BC and back to Shagrom.
·
Road
transfer between Airport-hotel and within city as per itinerary.
·
Dome
tents for sleeping for members at BC.
·
Mess
tent with tables and stools, kitchen tent and toilet tent.
·
Camping site fees and bridge crossing.
·
Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and all related gear.
·
Wages and basic kit of Guide, Cook, Assistant Cook, Porter Sardar and
Low Altitude Porters.
·
Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter
rescue)
·
Porterage at Airport, hotels, tool taxes and parking fees etc.
·
Mail
handling/forwarding to BC and overseas.
·
Reconfirmation of air tickets.
·
Hiring of High Altitude Porters, Mail Runners and other crew as per
requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team)
·
Domestic airfare. Surface transfer incase of flight cancellation.
Service not included
·
International Air fare, Airport taxes, excess baggage charges.
·
Liaison Officer Kit and equipment, allowance, travel, hotel and his
personal expenses of any kind.
·
Wages, allowance, food and kit-equipment of HAPs or any crew beyond BC.
·
Sleeping bags personal and climbing equipment of any kind above BC
including high altitude food and oxygen.
·
Medications ground evacuations and Helicopter rescue.
·
Insurance liability of members.
·
Tips
for field staff, drivers and porters.
